steve kopena
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All I ever used is a Sata, 1.4 hvlp for water base & 1.3 for HS+ clear. Sikkens. We all used the Binks No 7 and then the Devibas JGA….LOL! Question, should I try an Iwata too? For base or clear ?
that lessonal is probley the route I will go. The car is not even sold, its a new VW, lot damage and would be in bad taste to try and get away with something less than correct. I knew I could not be the only one to see this happen. Great site here!!
yes I was panel painting two dooors, I clear the color chips and keep for future reference.On first glance they look good, then staring at the doors I sprayed, they just look like they aren’t clean. I always panel painted with auto base plus, solid reds were never an issue.
with solvent, a light coat of reduced clear binder before starting to apply color works to fill sand scratches and lets you get a better look at your paint as you blend it out, I just dont take it all the way to the end of the panel. Now with water, its pretty much the same (sikkens) 666binder with 10% water and it helps the metalic lay a little softer.I lower the presure and move farther back from the panel and arc my wrist w/ full trigger. The biggest factor for me is picking the right variant, something with a dark flip will always be seen on an angle, on a car that has a light flip to it, on those smaller panel blends.