Stone

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  • January 27, 2011 at 5:58 pm #27710

    [quote=”bonsaiisuperstar” post=17624]I’m repainting the whole car. I’m gonna remove the front and rear bumpers. Front and rear lights will be removed also. Good masking job on the windows which will not be removed. Door jams not a problem since it will be sprayed the same color. I have a new door and front fender that will be sprayed off the car also. I have a few small dings and rust areas that need attention before the primer also.

    So after fixing dings, rust, etc. I should scuff entire car with either 180 or 240 and then use Epoxy primer? ( 2 coats) and then a sealer primer, then scuff the sealer primer with 180 again before applying paint? or is scuffing the sealer primer not necessary?

    Thanks for your time[/quote]

    car should be finished 320-400 grit prior to paint

    only prime your repair areas , sand them with 320-400 …. then paint the primer spots and any thing needing white base , then clear

    may not need to do the whole car just part of it :kofee

    January 27, 2011 at 5:10 am #27649

    measure the angle of a new bit …. sorry best I can do :stoned

    January 26, 2011 at 5:18 am #27623

    tool box ……:rofl ……. oh hell just leave your tools all over the shop like the Pro’s :whistle:

    January 25, 2011 at 11:06 pm #27615

    [quote=”A2brb” post=17536]I just realized I put this in the wrong section. Mods..please move to correct section. :silly:[/quote]

    😉

    January 22, 2011 at 10:46 am #27522

    :rofl I’m staying outta this :rofl

    January 22, 2011 at 8:14 am #27521

    [quote=”painter123″ post=17444]unless it is upol clear..:whistle:[/quote]

    :chair

    January 21, 2011 at 5:56 pm #27500

    those cladding colors never seem to match :kofee

    January 21, 2011 at 5:57 am #27493

    you like those guns ? and how much ? :kofee

    January 21, 2011 at 4:15 am #27487

    wa6246 ? … is all I show for cladding :unsure:

    GM CHARCOAL GREY MET
    WA6246 97-11 CLADDING

    January 20, 2011 at 11:30 pm #27483

    clear over cured sanded clear doesn’t pinch , so it’s got to be the undercoats primer or base

    January 20, 2011 at 11:12 pm #27482

    [quote=”Ben” post=17382][quote=”Brad Larsen” post=17365]As a rule whenever I have stress, I like to find the source of the stress and then break his legs.:clappy[/quote]

    Its a good idea in theory; however, I am not a big guy…maybe 130 lbs…[/quote]

    It’s not the size of the dog in the fight, it’s the size of the fight in the dog.

    January 20, 2011 at 9:09 pm #27479

    well .. that sucks … but maybe the new guy will end up making you look better 😉

    January 19, 2011 at 12:10 am #27411

    [quote=”PaintPerfect” post=17336]Very important if you care about economy – Trickle down economics actually works. So I prefer it to trickle down in my economy.[/quote]

    I concur … I do like a shop at home policy …. If I buy stuff from my locals (when possible and feasible ) then they can then afford to fix their car. :teach

    January 18, 2011 at 7:14 pm #27388

    :welc what kind of beer you drink :cheers :dnc

    January 18, 2011 at 6:19 pm #27386

    and do you see the same thing with out the primer , …. for instance if clearing over just base or sanded clear coat?

    I see little die back on clear coat over sanded clear , some on things that are just based and cleared , and more pinch on things that are epoxy primed, based and cleared. :kofee

    I suspect the epoxy primer :whistle:

Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 821 total)