Stone
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[quote=”bonsaiisuperstar” post=17624]I’m repainting the whole car. I’m gonna remove the front and rear bumpers. Front and rear lights will be removed also. Good masking job on the windows which will not be removed. Door jams not a problem since it will be sprayed the same color. I have a new door and front fender that will be sprayed off the car also. I have a few small dings and rust areas that need attention before the primer also.
So after fixing dings, rust, etc. I should scuff entire car with either 180 or 240 and then use Epoxy primer? ( 2 coats) and then a sealer primer, then scuff the sealer primer with 180 again before applying paint? or is scuffing the sealer primer not necessary?
Thanks for your time[/quote]
car should be finished 320-400 grit prior to paint
only prime your repair areas , sand them with 320-400 …. then paint the primer spots and any thing needing white base , then clear
may not need to do the whole car just part of it :kofee
[quote=”Ben” post=17382][quote=”Brad Larsen” post=17365]As a rule whenever I have stress, I like to find the source of the stress and then break his legs.:clappy[/quote]
Its a good idea in theory; however, I am not a big guy…maybe 130 lbs…[/quote]
It’s not the size of the dog in the fight, it’s the size of the fight in the dog.
[quote=”PaintPerfect” post=17336]Very important if you care about economy – Trickle down economics actually works. So I prefer it to trickle down in my economy.[/quote]
I concur … I do like a shop at home policy …. If I buy stuff from my locals (when possible and feasible ) then they can then afford to fix their car. :teach
and do you see the same thing with out the primer , …. for instance if clearing over just base or sanded clear coat?
I see little die back on clear coat over sanded clear , some on things that are just based and cleared , and more pinch on things that are epoxy primed, based and cleared. :kofee
I suspect the epoxy primer :whistle:
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