John Lyman
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Generally, the traditional cotton gauze types of tack cloth are recommended to be fully opened, and then loosely re-bundled (wadded, balled), repeating the procedure as surfaces become dirty. But you can used the flat-folded tack cloth on broad, flat surfaces (re-folding as needed) The auto OEM polyester knit tack cloth types, and non-woven types, essentially must be used flat.
More questions ?
Thanks for keeping this thread going. I’m glad to address the topic title specifically, but its just one of many FAQ’s that tack cloth users will have.
Tack Cloth debris originates from 3 sources : 1) fiber or threads from the cloth (textile) component of tack cloth; 2) chemical residues from the tack treatment; and 3) dirt (defined as particles and fibers) that are picked up by tack cloth but then re-deposited due to lack of adhesive tack quality.
So the remedies for these specific “debris” maladies are straight forward :
[b]fiber or threads[/b] — if using cotton tack cloth, look for finish-woven long edges (selvages) and not raw (cut thread) edge that are increasingly common Look for straight, clean-cut piece ends. And pay the rate for tighter weaves (24/20 and up to 28/24 mesh, or 52 yarns/inch) over retailers’ preferred profit makers of low thread count (20/9, 20/12 or 20/16). Better yet, ask for auto OEM quality “lint free’ design with non-fibrous, filament polyester knit fabric with finish-knitted edges and sealed end cuts
[b]tack residues & dirt retention [/b]– test for, and value, a tack cloth that’s made with “complex” multi-part tack treatment formulary, rather than cheap one-part “commodity” tack cloths that are often too light in tack or oily. Avoid tack cloth made with solvents (VOC – volatile organic components). And be sure that you’re using the tack cloth correctly — poor wiping technique is a common cause of tack transfer.
I’m glad to expound on these comments as requested, and to address the many other tack cloth variables.
…just came across this board during routine research. I’m a foremost expert in tack cloth, with nearly 40 years experience that includes product design, innovation, manufacturing and applications support (esp. at auto OEM’s, etc.). A couple of quick comments about what I’ve read in this thread :
the traditional cotton gauze (cheesecloth) tack cloth types were all previously made with finish-woven edges (“selvage”) when those weaving looms were state-of-the-art. But more modern weaving looms produce rough edges with cut yarn ends. However, the old-style finish edged cloth is still available from some cheesecloth weaving mills, so it can be found in some tack cloths. As a general rule, all wipers are better with finished edges rather than raw edges. Note that auto OEM’s haven’t used cotton tack cloths for some 20 years now, and instead use mainly non-fibrous, polyester knitted types (something that I introduced back in 1988)..
some of the major brand names mentioned in this thread are not tack cloth manufacturers. The large corporate, multi-national PBE brand that you all know will typically have their tack cloths made under contract to one of the specialty producers that are all relatively small businesses.
I’m always glad to answer technical questions about tack cloths, as well as to help your jobbers or PBE wholesalers to better understand and improve their tack cloth offerings.
Hello, all…I just happened across this forum now. I’d like to contribute some info as an expert in tack cloth design and production (with nearly 40 years in the business).
There is quite a variety of materials used to make tack cloths. Regarding the cloth material, noted in this forum is the conventional cotton type, made with cheesecloth (gauze). Important is a common auto OEM design that is knitted with non-fibrous, filament polyester yarns and having finished edges to be “lint free”. Also referenced in the forum are non-woven cloths, designed to be lower in cost. Each cloth type has advantages and disadvantages.
“Tack” may range from a simple one-part treatment in the commodity grade tack cloths, to complex, multi-part formulas in the preferred professional brands. Modern commercial tack cloths are made with hot-melt treatments in the US/EU, and usually (still) with solvent systems in Asia. Water-borne systems are typically used in non-woven tack cloths for certain reasons, but may also appear in woven or knitted cloths. There is a great variety of quality and performance to be found among these different systems and formulas — just like paints, sealants, etc. Generally, the better tack cloths require more sophisticated production systems to accommodate tack treatments that are optimized for both “adhesion” (dirt pick-up and holding) and “cohesion” (relating to resistance to resin transfer). Simpler tack cloths tend to use thinner (oilier, or high-solvent) treatments to ease production and minimize cost. But thinner treatments will transfer more easily, so less of the treatment can be used and thus the tacking performance is reduced. “Bee’s wax” is NOT a material used in modern, commercial tack cloths.
Different tack-off applications can benefit from different tack cloth designs. I’m glad to answer questions and discuss any related information in greater detail.