Henry
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well, I am sick with a dry throat and smelled clear coat on the last job I did. No one else in my family has gotten sick so I think it was from spraying. Just mucus. A charcoal mask would be fine but my boss lags on stuff all the time and don’t want to deal with his usual patterns of, “ok, I’ll get a new mask for you when the next job is done,” cause that’s probably why I’m sick right now.
I like SEM copperweld too. Works great but will have spatter if you cake it on, but not nearly as bad as other stuff I’ve used. I usually take my mini blaster and clean up the holes for plug welding.
thanks for that. Looks like I will have to get a cup for the SRI gun I have.
Today I did a burn in and it turned out great. Just back masked everything. One for the base and flicked in away from the back mask. Peeled that off than cleared flicking it in and away from the other back mask. Then I removed that back mask and burned it in. Also removed the tape just beyond the last back mask and misted a little bit there too. I planned on it being that way and even had some 2500 beyond the tape just a hair. Don’t think I’ll need to buff.
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the body work has to be a lot straighter on restorations and the clear has to be put on thicker cause you need to sand off more orange peel . On production jobs I use 2 coats of clear and try to sand to match factory clear orange peel. When I do restorations it’s 3 coats and I hard block the clearcoat and sand off more clear than I would with a production job. A flow coat as Jayson mentioned is good for urethane wave and getting it extra sharp, but just hardblocking the clear with your initial sanding will help that too. With good body techs the urethane wobble should be the only thing left in that stage that’s imperfect, but this also depends on the type of money the customer is paying.
definitely no expert at paint but can see a huge difference in dirt by how you situate stuff in the booth. I guess this is obvious to a lot of guys here but if I’m spraying a horizontal hood prone to dirt I want it a couple feet behind the filters where the air comes in with the less important stuff further back where the air goes out. Seems to make a difference I sure have a lot to learn.
is that why your user name is “runnin”? :rofl
Thanks for that. I’ll get a little bolder next time but careful at the same time.
hate to hijack the thread but I got a question. I think the newer featherfill is called 4:1, right? Anyhow, can this newer formula be reduced with thinnner or acetone like the old stuff? Haven’t needed it so far but when the heat comes might have to thin it out a little.
thanks guys. Glad I didn’t try to mess with the fan then. Spraying from the backside did wonders on the very middle .
thanks for the response. That’s exactly what I did. The other day I sprayed hot rod black on the inside of some fenders and had to mess with the fan to get it deep into the cavity up front and it worked great in covering every section. I was very tempted to try that with the clear to get it wetter in the fog light opening but I sensed RUN and didn’t try it.
thanks for the warm reception. Your videos have been a lot of help so thanks!
that’s a lot of preppers. I think the formula out here is the incentive for advance. the places that seemed to have things rolling would have preppers who were young and wanted to be painters and they got to mix paint and jamb as well. They also had body men and painters assigned one helper/prepper. The incentive for everybody was that the painter/bodyman who worked on commission would either make more or less depending on his helper, that he personally paid when things were rolling. This kept production up, teams tight, and slackers out. Places that had life long preppers seemed to have slower times cause they’d get burned out on it. Just my opinions on what I saw.
I’d also like to note that my wife’s bumper is white, so yellowing of any sort will jump right out. I thought it was decent for a budget clear but our jobber also has a budget transtar Euro clear that I like better.
I have the Viking and unfortunately it’s not stamped with the Alcoa label, so it’s not made in The US. There’s also a shop IR inline here that never gets oiled and it works a lot better than my inline that gets oiled often. I like The IR inline sander and wouldn’t feel it justified to pay more or less for something. I also think an inline sander has a very limited role in comparison to a mud hog. I’d look into getting a mud hog before getting an inline sander but that’s just me. An inline sander to me is just for my initial coat of filler. With a mudhog I can lightly sand the top of a final skim coat if I wanted to, but neither are good for primer.
I love the G2 Featherfill for the first round of blocking. Couldn’t tell you how it sprays in the hotter weather but in this weather a 1.8 was working fine. I recall the old featherfill needing a 2.0-2.2 in the summer and acetone to reduce.
I sprayed my wife’s bumper with UPOL clear. Holding up great but has yellowed really bad. Didn’t die back all that much. The yellowing is what bothered me.