Greg
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[quote=”gtome” post=33448]I have only used sealer a couple of times, but as was mentioned, it didnt seem as flat as sanded primer to me. Seemed like it had just a bit of texture to it.[/quote]you prob should hang it up. Just sayin… if u need a job u could alwYs man a call center
Jay I would have to agree. After crossing off the laundry list of things ppg said to try and none of them worked. I honestly feel like the bumper I delt with today absolutely needed 600 and primer for the paint to stick. Ppg blamed toyota for a faulty bumper. Which I don’t think is the case. We will see tomorow. But one thing is for sure, ppg can’t deny I’m preppin them wrong now that we have cameras. Some of those tech reps wouldn’t make it cleanin a shitter at walmart. :teach
I agree with ya on the one choice ben. But tying up my only booth just so I can prep a bumper I’m not fond of. But I will say its better than a redo if that’s what it takes. I am contimplating a different system/ adhesion promoter. What works for u?
Ya I really only want to do it on state trooper cars. Which we get a lot of. And pw1 is dead on in deltron
A lot of times I see these yellow marking with salvage parts. Circled dents etc. Part number written on it. Make sure to wipe it off with a thinner before starting repair. Wax and grease remover won’t touch it. And ten coats of paint won’t hide it! Hope this helps. I have ran into problems with pdr markers on self healing clear coats also. Ie nissan infinity. Dont let anything like that bake in the sun!
[quote=”Ben” post=32462]Single stage in the end is cheaper and easier to apply, less margin of error. In solid colours single stage looks as good or better than base/clear. A good quality urethane single stage will be as durable as base/clear. Only down side in my mind is that the uv protection won’t be as great (more so on uv sensative colours like red). But you can always do an intermix coat with clear (using what is compatible as per the tech sheet) to remedy this.[/quote] ben I haven’t messed with ppgs single stage at all, but curious if I was to do say a panel repair on a car with bccc, would it stick out single staging that panel? Always looking for better turn around
I have sprayed ppg deltron for about a year and a half and I mostly agree with ben. The 894 clear is far superior to any of the dc3000 dc4000 etc. One thing I will warn u on the 894 is its a little touchy. Very easy to run the fuck out of it. And it takes a long time to cure. Even with a bake cycle. If u paint ur project in seperate pieces I would highly recomend ppg global 893 clear. Much more user friendly imo.
Looks awesome man! My fingers hurt just thinking about prepping that :clappy looks really nice tho. I really like seeing old things like this being brought back to life!
I spray 3 to 4 jobs a day with deltron. There are things I really dislike but aslo has some upsides too. I really dont care for the sealers. (Not tintable) and for each color ppg has a value shade of sealer to use under it. White to a dark grey scale ranges 1 to 7. I have came across severL colors that if u use the recomended shade say on a bumber…. ur fucked. With the reds that recommend g7, the darkest sealer, it will come out way to dark. So I recommend going a bit lighter on the shades then recommended. Their blender works aweaome. For oreintation coats etc. The clears I have used are 2021 dc3000 and dc 4000. 2021 and dc4000 imo are a lot alike. 2021 is really thin and is very easy to run. And takes a while to set up. Even with bake. Dc3000 is great for bumpers and it sets up quick. Bu t my fav clear of ppgs is actually in their global line 893. Which I now use for just about everything. Im assuming ur gonna use ppgs clear as well bc thats the only way they will waranty anything. Hope this helps.
Not tryin to be a dick 😆 I just dont think the grass is greener on that particular side. Man up do ur job and ull get paid much better than as an estimator
[quote=”murray34″ post=31770]Get a good estimating program like CCC pathways. Don’t write them Like “I could fix that in 2 hours”. Most decent technicians can kill the time allowed for repairs. Don’t miss the little things like haz. Waste removal, set up and measure, that kind of stuff. Tear downs are nice when they are possible. Never undercut yourself on labor, and good luck :rock[/quote] no matter what he writes insurance will cut it way down :readthis: and im sure the new guy has the pull to get his estimating system of choice :stoned
Techs are gonna hate :cens honestly if ur any good in ur field ur gonna make a lot more in the shop than in the office
Yes my ls isn’t even that slow. That is supposed to be a ws HD? I see why the walls are covered in over spray now….. :stoned I’m sure his jobber loves him!
Not knockin iwatas….. but….. I bought an ls had all kinds of problems. Nobs fallin off etc. The main prob was this tho. My trigger started hanging up. Sent it in. Got it back with paperwork unable to duplicate. Well regardless I sent back. We will see what happens. But the ls doesnt lay it down fast enough for me. I wouldnt rule them out. Other options. Hybrid hd etc. But after my go around im content with satas :headsmack:
pretty much all of them… lol whites anyways. i have read that article before. it did teach me a thing or two on blending tris. but my main issue isnt that.
Today i did a mazda bumper 25d. snowflake white. as usual it came out too light. i usually do a let down. today i was in a hurry lot of cars to get out of the paint shop ect. so i added black to the groundcoat after looking at chip and just went for it. I do want to try the paint dot method the article mentions… to tint. but in all honesty ever since i have started painting, i have had a difficult time darkening whites. i can usually get the yellow or red or blue tinting to them pretty close. its the darkness i can never bring around.
Tommorow i got a fun one as well. atleast with deltron. toyo 6s7. its a met green. picked a chip i liked and was also a mpm. noticed it had a tad to much blue sidetone to it so i left out about 10 grams of the blue shade and mixed. can always add as i need. It came out way to blue still. and i got about 10 inches from the primer to the edge of the door and no blend on quarter. i hate ppg deltron.
hopefully it will make me better at tinting tho:)