Greg
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I have spent thousands on shit that wasnt meant for what I do. On somebody elses recomendations. Im just trying to get a point across that in a high prod environment u buy a smaller tip sealergun ull prob be buying anothr needle nozzle or another gun on top of it.im not sayint ben doesnt give good advice. Jus t trying to save a guy some coin!
I would go bigger. 1.4 . I use a nr2000 1.4. The teknas dont put out enough material. If ur panel painting they are prob fine. But if u want a gun thats good for everything completes ect buy a 1.4. Sata bf100 1, 4 is nice as well. When it comes to a six foot wide chevy hoo d u will be glad u have a 1, 4!
I car is a joke. If u cant pass an open book test u are retarded. Why insurance companies push for this is on me. Give me the hardest test in the world and give me a book with the answers. I car is funded by the insurance companies and those same companies share the profits with I car…… this needs to be regulated :stoned
Really no need to cut a solid color with 500. For that use its meant dor the more difficult metallics. Which I really dont even think helps for this. But anyways. The 500 hundred will be good for this. On ur preticular job. 1. After clear basing the whole panel it makes it a lot easier to see if say u burned through somewhere when prepping. 2. Much easier transition from base to blend. 3. If u have to seal primer baseclearing really helps u track if u have sealer overspray where u dont want it. Otherwise noy being able to be seen until u clear it. Hope this helps ya. :cheers
I dont generally cut my colr down with dbc. It was recommended by me by ppg but personally I seen no diff whatsoever. If u see a major diff of color on first coat its time to tint. Actually its time to tent before the first coat but we all know how that goes. I agree ddbc can be used as a crutch. But if its a color thats way off ur better of spending a little time matching it. Before u sand the blend panel beyond the blend panel….. lol.
No. If u have a big chunk or something let the sealer set up for a good amount of time. 45 min or so. Then just nib the prob spot with 600 wet. U will find the sealer is not meant to be sanded. It will clog ur paper up right away. And if u hurry to nib it to soon ur going to see those marks clear as day when applying base over it. Hope this helps!
Do u use ur sagola much for base? When I first heard the name sagola I thought people were making fun of sata. Didnt realize it was actually a brand… lol but I have been researching it and watching videos. It seemed slow on vid but the atomization looked really good. From a video… im happy with my rp4000 for clear. I really like it. For base im using a nr 2000. But im always game to try something new
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