Tim
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you ain’t from the USA are ya?? DUH! :blink:
nevr heard of max meyer…is it under/over another label? :pcorn:good deal…sprayed it with ppg clear huh?
marhyde buff sands great.
yellow top coat will cover this primer in 2 coats easy.nice AU huh?
good job jacksmoooooth…..what clear did you use?
[quote=”Ben” post=14495]I filled in for the painter a few weeks ago. I think I did about 80 hours for the week @ 25/hr.
That is much less than our painter…but I don’t paint on a regular basis.[/quote]
not bad at all
[quote=”Paintwerks” post=14507]Hey all,
I have an ’04 Subaru WRX STi in for hail damage repair. Roof, doors, boot, tops of doors and a new hood.
I took the roof back to bare metal, filled the dents with polyester filler and blocked back. Repeated this process until the hail dents were gone. I then sprayed 2 coats of (Car System) polyester, baked that, blocked it back with 80 then 180 then 240. Primed it with PPG D839 spray filler (5:1:1), then blocked that back with 180, then 240 then 400.
All the time I was blocking, I was conscious not to dig the block into the roof where I would put pressure on any of the roof attachment points.
As the primer was older than 72 hours by the time I got to spray my base, I hit the panel with 2 coats WOW D839. Base laid down nicely and so did the HS clear.
I’m now looking at the roof and I can see very slight (but noticable) circular depressions in the roof directly where the adhesive spots attach the roof skin to the cross bars. They weren’t visible in the WOW primer or prior to clearing, and they didn’t show up on [u]any[/u] of my multiple guidecoats either. But the f-ers are there. :wak
Can anybody tell me how this has happened, and what do you recommend I do to fix it? The car has to be delivered soon and I’d really rather not have to do the roof from scratch if I can help it. But if it’s the best way, I will do that. Or, could I knock back the clear a little with 180 and then fill the depressions with U-Pol Dolphin fine finish filler, reprime and paint again? All I’m worried about the micron thickness building up.
Any help/advice greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Sime[/quote]got pics?
consider reblocking with 180-320 to see how it looks first.
might can just reprime with urethane then color…hurry and repost!
nice shop
smoooth!! 😉
hazed out….dieback??
[quote=”Old DuPont Guy” post=12593]I hope there is no hard feelings from the other site Jimmo. It looks like Im welcome over here.
…..Or you guys just blowin smoke..Hey,,,I forgot to show yall this pic. Me and Bondo went fishing the other day and look at what he caught….I had to get a pick of his fish!
[img size=400]http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/8349/hebes1.jpg[/img][/quote]
So you have kids…seen the c-section scar.. :silly:[quote=”bobwires” post=14444]I have new lines in my shop, and the single thing that made the biggest difference was making the line right out of the compressor go up 8′ in the air. My big water trap is right there, and after the compressor runs a couple days I still hardly get a drop out of the filter.[/quote]
Makes perfect sense to me.. :pcorn:Ok bud …..you can and I have top coated poly without sealing with urethane primer but you might be rolling the dice on DOI and holdout as poly doe have more porosity….
Do you have the gun to shoot poly?
What tip size?
Maybe you should just go with his advice and forget all this time spent here asking and typing… :blink:1 quart set up of epoxy should do.
1 Gal setup of urethane to top it off and have some left over.
Get roughest parts to 180 grit and the rest 180-320.
Apply 1-2 wet coats of epoxy especially to the bare metal areas…..you did tape it up first huh?
Let the epoxy flash as recommended then apply your urethane.
Wait over nite or next day before sanding.
Guide coat.
Block with 400 wet for solids and 600 wet for metallics.Single Stage paint is what you prob need.
Enamel will be the cheapest top coat.
Urethane most durable.
Solid color most user friendly.
