tommy
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
hi where are you based?
Awsome work as usual nick !
Tommy
I have one i am thinking of selling
sata 2000 hvlp digital
comes with water based set up (wsb)
1.3 set up and also 1.4 set upalso comes with 1l alloy cup
great gun just dont use it anymore
tommy
follow tec sheet for your paint … that will guide you for tip size for application .
tommy
Hi , you need to feather the edge back with the da on maybe 500g then refine to 800g after that you need to either prime or put a sealer ober the area …then blend paint as normal
hope this helps
tommy
welcome ,
where in scotland you from ?
Hi it looks like a met paint?
all paints are tricky to get a spot on match this is why you have to blend your colour into the existing paint then clear coat the full panel
you primer also ads a value to the colour light colours…req light primer (white) med colours med shade primer (grey) darker colours (black) if yours is grey/silver go with a grey primer
hope this helps
tommy
[quote=”Nick” post=25088]I finished painting the front end of my Eclipse off the car, and after I re-assembled it I saw a horrid buttmatch between panels. I know I made a few mistakes
The color is R70, Patriot Red. A deep burgundy metallic, pretty transparent
I shot the fenders over black primer, but the bumper+lip over grey. The fenders look much darker and the bumper looks lighter than the hood.
So basically, can I cut the clear with a 1500 grit and try to blend in the panels to make a better match? My doors are lighter than the fenders, but the bumper is lighter than both. So I’m basically trying to blend 3 different hue’s… terrible[/quote]
I would scuff the parts to be blended with 1000g 1500g wet
then apply sealer to the panel edges and melt the sealer edges then base as normal then clear all panels
this is more DOI than fixing it propper
doing it propper i would use a sealer on the whole fender the blend sealer onto the door edges and the bumper allow to flash then base up the flenders blending colour into doors and bumper extending every coat then clear the full job
tommy
hi your mapping line will come from sanding with 80 grit i would think
i would do your rough fiberglass repair in 80grit
then do your skim of filler to level repair then cut with 80.then 120after this i would put a skim of glaze/stopper over the full repair and sand with 120 then 180 and finish with 240g
primer / flaten with 400 then 6/800 paint /clear
with doing any fiberglass i always leave it to air dry rather than force dry it
tommy
[IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b65/xr3iturbo/IMAG0152.jpg[/IMG]
sorry about the pic lol
this is the idea for re-cirulation of hot air for baking temps
Notes:
SPRAYING:
Flap no1 will be closed during painting/clearing
Fan no2 will be off during painting
BAKING:
Flap no1 open and fan no2 on flowing into ducting this will draw the heated air back up into the track where the fresh air is still being heated and re-circulating it through and through
whats the thoughts guys?
I take it if i put industrial ducting up to the celing filers on the outside of the booth before the fan and had the heater pointed into the ducting would that work and have the fan dragging it through into the booth ?
dose the burner heat come through the filters in a real booth?
[quote=”Andy T” post=24909][quote=”turbo t” post=24906]spraying some la7w and la5w today i will let you know how it goes[/quote]
Have fun with the Reflex 😆 To be fair I’ve always found it to be a really good match. It’s one of the few silvers I’ll risk edge to edge. But boy is it transparent!
It’s around 50% 913C (one of their worst covering silvers), 30% 913B (another poor one) 10% flop control agent, with the rest being made up of bits and bobs of black, white and blue. (Can you tell I mix a lot of it?! :blink: )
A light grey primer or undercoat will really help, but if not just allow yourself an extra coat or two and you’ll be fine. Can’t wait to get the new high-strength silvers and see how much difference they make, especially to two of the colours I spray the most – Reflex Silver and Star Silver (157), which has even more 913C in it.
And your idea for keeping the paint warm sounds good. A really small heater would do it as they don’t need to be particularly warm, just not cold :)[/quote]
cool mate going to be tomorrow now so many people in and out today hardly god a thing done lol
yeh its all in 8-145 light grey primer
how much paint would you advise on
golf mk4 ani bodykit
front lower valance
rear lower valance
2 side skirts and a roof spoiler ?i bought a ltr but have some ezr still there so was thinking of dusting a coat of that first to help cover?
thanks
tommy
Same thing i was thinking andy i have a metal stand was giong to put kingspan on the outside ..no doors for fumes etc and stick a tube heater on the bottom shelf so the heat rises up through thought this would work good?
might even find me on a shelf some mornings !!
The rep also has a sata 3000 foose gun with a 1.2 so think i may buy that too !
spraying some la7w and la5w today i will let you know how it goes
welcome all the way from scotland !
Hi i would advise you buy a rotary polisher … da is ok for finishing etc but not for cutting
Sounds like there is some colour broken through too …i would either take it back to the painter or buy the paint and do this yourself …. the painter maybe able to blow this in AS SUCH but the correct way is to dust in the repairs and clear the full thing
hope this helps
tommy