Tyler Brooks

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  • October 17, 2014 at 7:56 am #47656

    I actually have my fan dialed in to turns and it works great

    October 8, 2014 at 8:18 am #47553

    I use the ws400evo 1.3hd as well and I love it. It seems to shoot pretty much any clear well that I have tried. Its more of a compliant/rp style gun and I find its abit slower then the ls, but that suits my style being abit slower I find I’m very consistent. My coworker uses a ls400 for clear and recently bought the entech tip set for it and used it for a couple month then swiched back to the silver tip again

    June 20, 2014 at 8:31 am #46847

    Welcome to the site, I am also from bc, duncan Vancouver island

    June 17, 2014 at 7:10 am #46823

    I would personally like to switch to sikkens, unfortunately we are on a contract with sher will. We make there product work, that’s all I’ll say about that

    June 15, 2014 at 8:01 am #46814

    Where I work we are a sher will shop and we always use sikkens clears, superior 250 and energy pro. They both have good body and actually dry and keep a really good shine, I think we actually use more of it then our sherwill clears

    March 12, 2014 at 8:40 pm #46076

    We are a sherwill shop but we always keep some 250 on hand for jobs that need to go the same day they are painted, I think it pretty great for bumpers, we accelerate the clear so within 2 hours it’s hard as a rock, and if there’s any imperfections they can be polishing out very soon after. That’s about all we use this clear for

    February 25, 2014 at 4:56 am #45973

    I use the 7E7 on both my guns spraying medium wet coats

    We spray in a semi-down with a side exit, air make up with a califonia pulse set up which speeds up the flash time on the base
    it seems to dry everything pretty good although it does ake while to get up to 140 surface temp

    we do cocktail the hpc21 and 755 but normally only when spraying in our old cross flow

    Today we got a new shipment of 310 so we threw the old one out, there was less the 1/4 can left and i sprayed a vw golf front clip hood bumper blend fenders, the code was lc9x a pearl black with alot of 310, some 415 , 433 blue pearl and 700 and i used 020 with a little bit of 030 mixed in and it came out great, 2 coats of 757 and there is like 3 nibs in the job 😀

    so im guessing they have been sending us some bad 310s the last couple of months that could have been getting to cold during shipping or something, hopefully this is the problem,

    I’ll post again later this week and let you guys know how the jobs are turning out.

    Tyler

    February 24, 2014 at 8:17 am #45968

    We also believe it is the 310, We have had it replaced several times without any change

    we have tried using 020 and 030 with the same protrusion result.

    I personally use tecknas with 1.2 tips in them for base and I do my drop coats at 12-15 psi, I have tried using my 4000 rp but I prefer the tecknas, the other painter uses a 4000 hvlp and 3000 hvlp and a supernova all with the same results

    I was unaware about the 310 and 700 not reacting well together,

    we kept thinking it had something to do with the pearls or metallic but just this last Friday we painted a solid black audi a4 paint code l041 which is just strait 310 and reducer and it was extremely grity requiring us to pretty much completely polish anywhere that there is basecoat on the car :S

    we mainly use 757 clear but we leave out about a 3rd of the es55 reducer as we have had problem with the clear curing fast enough

    we have also been using sickens 250 and energy pro which helps cause they have more build

    yes Reg is the tech we also have Gerry from Van as well.

    August 14, 2013 at 8:30 am #44061

    Yea, the sikkens rep told us we should polish the superior clear within 24 hours and to start with a wool pad. We also tried there fast clear, I painted a mini van hatch in out cross flow and I cleared the panel at 2pm and was polishing it at 4, I couldn’t believe how hard it was I could barely put a fingernail mark into it let alone a finger print it. But I was having to sand for quite awhile to cut the nibs, the rep always had me final wipe te fresh clear before I started sanding it

    May 4, 2013 at 7:44 pm #43084

    Thanks yes it is my truck

    April 29, 2013 at 8:25 am #43013

    Thanks man, I’m a west coaster, vancouverisland to be exact, I’m looking forward to spraying it, I find cromax to be very different then any other paint, and yes I agree the color match wasen’t the greatest,

    February 5, 2013 at 10:28 pm #41098

    I’ve been using DuPont for over a year now and haven’t had much problem with color, the camera we have is the older ma90 I believe. I use the camera as a tool, I always use the vindicator system and use the chip deck to double check. When in te booth I always make a spray out card of every color I shoot and catalog them in recipe boxes. After a year of doing that I have built up quite a collection and now, if something come in the door that is a unfamiliar color I will pre mix and do spray outs before its in the booth. I believe we are getting the new aquire camera soon. My only real complaint with the DuPont basecoat are it’s difficult to sand and how dirty the tinters seem to be especially the pearls and blacks,. Now I always mix my colors in a mixing cup and then strain it into the pps cups, I don’t trust just using the filter in the pps cup cause as it pressurizes I find it pulls crap threw the filter, I also have been trying out putting the mixed paint in the pps cup onto the shaker for like 20 seconds. Another painter gave me this tip so I’ve just started trying it