Shawn Goodson
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- March 26, 2011 at 6:52 am #29845
Endust? Isn’t that for cleaning furniture? You’ve got my attention. An anti-static furniture polish to clean my woodwork and also to final wipe before paint. Sounds good to me.
March 14, 2011 at 4:33 am #29507[quote=”bondomerchant” post=19287]18 ft silverline with a mercruiser an a 302
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Wu0G6uI87A%5B/quote%5DGood ol boats. Had a 74′ searay 20 footer, same motor, similar layout. She was a good ol girl. Go thru about anything.
March 14, 2011 at 4:14 am #29505Looks like a lot of work. Worth it if it’s one you are rebuilding for yourself or to sell.
March 14, 2011 at 4:10 am #29504[quote=”bondomerchant” post=19263]was gonna post this for ya guys with cabin fever
http://www.blip.tv/file/3907159/%5B/quote%5DDefinately makes you wish spring was here now. What a gorgeous area. What kinda boat do you have. A little hard to tell from the vid. By the quick glimpse i got of her, looks like about a 18-20 foot… maybe SeaRay?
March 14, 2011 at 3:55 am #29502[quote=”TonyF” post=19280]Yeah, after 15 or so brewskis and a few hours in the sun u start to forget just how powerful it is. I was supposed to get my hands on the hull this past winter for some wild house of kolor paint scheme but he had to rebuild the motor. Maybe next year i will get to show off on it.[/quote]
Nice boat! Like the ski tow hook off the stern. Anybody got the marbles to try an ski or tube behind that beast! What a wake.. Jet drive?
March 8, 2011 at 3:51 am #29247[quote=”bobwires” post=19066]I’ve sprayed both, and the urethane SS. urethane was great, crossfire is diarrhea, tec base seems fine, and the tec clear is so-so.
mind you, I’m not a pro painter.[/quote]
I agree that Crossfire is crap. Have a buddy that sprays tec base and says it’s decent. Not sure about the clear though.
March 6, 2011 at 5:07 am #29180I just came across a set of compounds and polishes made by Sungold Abrasives http://www.sungoldabrasives.com . Eclipse compound works great for removing 1000 grit and finer sand scratches. Followed by Eclipse polish and then a swirl remover glaze. Compound dusts a little but not real messy like some are. Bought a kit with compound, polish, glaze, and a quick wax (also included a wool pad and a yellow foam polish pad) for $54.00 from my local supply house. Compared to the big boys, the price is right (works out to be less than $15.00 a quart for material and new pads free to boot. Just my $.02
March 6, 2011 at 4:45 am #29179Inside of bed looks awesome. Nice work. The owner has to be so happy.
February 7, 2011 at 5:54 am #28216In my opinion, you can never have too many tools. Unfortunately, unless auto body is something you think you will be doing more of in the future, the cost of the necessary tools will be expensive. You could easily have $5000.00 in tools and a compressor if you don’t already have some of the basics. As for stripping the car yourself and sending it out for the body work, you could certainly save yourself some cash. Just take care in stripping the existing layers of finish from the car. Don’t want to make extra bodywork for yourself. Looks like a solid car (from the pictures) and shouldn’t be too difficult to get cleaned up. If you have plenty of time to put towards it, I’m sure you can get it done. Good luck and ask plenty of questions, the people on this site are very helpful.
February 6, 2011 at 1:01 am #28152You can get your metal pipe threaded in any length you specify at any Home Depot or Lowes. Any plumbing supply store that sells black pipe can thread it for you. Copper is better at disapating the heat…. if you can afford the price tag. Round these parts a 10′ stick of 3/4″ copper tubing goes for 40-50 bucks. Black iron pipe is more like 10-15 bucks per 10′, and they’ll thread it for you.
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