Shawn Goodson
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I started painting with a devilbiss finishline 3 gun and definately agree that as I became a more experienced painter, the gun was the restriction. No question about it, better gun + more experience= better overall finish. As for your compressor setup, I also used to have a 33 gal single stage compressor. Just not enough cfm to run most hvlp guns. Small panels and small jobs can turn out ok, but doing an overall or larger panel repair is gonna take more air than you have available. For your setup on your air delivery, do as Ryan says, get some piping (metal, not plastic) and run your air line a minimum of 25 to 30 feet away from your compressor (farther away if possible). Mount the air line so that the moisture in the piping can run back toward the compressor. Then install your regulator, water separator, and any other drier device you may have. The theory behind the long run of metal piping is to give the air time to cool down and for the moisture to condense so that the water separator can grab it. No matter what type of moisture removal device you are using, if the moisture is still in a water vapor state, the device will not catch it. High volume couplers for your hose is a must. In my opinion, the air line plumbing, water separator, and high flow couplers are very important must have items. I used to paint with my air hose coming straight off the compressor and used an in-line water final filter. Nothing but headaches. Hope this helps you out somewhat and good luck.
Thanks for the warm welcome fellas. Just finishing up a Honda street bike repair and paint. I’ll get some pics up after it’s re-assembled.
Love my SATA 3000 HVLP 1.3 Digital for base and clear. Have used Devilbiss guns prior to using my Sata and I have to say, I like the Sata better. I guess it all depends on the user and their style of painting. Just my opinion, buy the best gun that is within your budget.
Could have always added another coat and chase those runs to the bottom of the panel. Then use a razor to chop off the “icicles”:stoned
If you could blast them with something like a fine glass bead, I think you would have plenty of “tooth” for the primer to grip. I’ve had lots of luck blasting with glass beads and priming with a 2k DTM primer. Definately agree with the guys on using a urethane single stage. Will definately resist the chips better and you won’t have to worry about the salt and other road yuck peeling the clear of a base clear job. Good luck!
A beer or two can be a good thing before you paint. Helps to take the edge off for me… at least until the paint fumes kick in:blink: