spiro
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Hi there Paul so you finally got the optima trilogy then is it the rebranded nordsen one? How do you find it sprays are they any good?….Spray better than your walcom fx ha?
I’ve always used the 3M PPS system and found it to be much quicker with colour changes for example when I have multiple colours in the oven and i don’t have to leave the oven to swap out colours, just rinse with some thinner and go. Also love the fact that when I mix my clear I don’t have to stir I just shake the crap out of it and plug her in. I use the 16026 cups which are the 125 micron lids, IMO it’s a great system. 😉
Nice work , we have a new Mazda 6 here in Australia very similar colour can’t remember the code though which was a real pain. The old bloke here at work doing the job had no luck matching it so he got the paint rep in . How do you find the PPG envirobase, is it working well for you? We’re looking at going waterborne very soon,still on Standox solvent was curious to know how your doing with it.
I counted 26 guns there wow that is one awesome collection, and I thought I was addicted to buying new guns. :cheers
[quote=”81Malibu” post=33219]My main concern is how well will the gun hold up over time. I know when I pick up my SATA it’s going to work 99% of the time. When I pick up my Finex most of the time it doesn’t. I tried an Iwata a few months ago and it sprayed excellent. My problem is that it looked a lot like my Sharpe inside. Years back I did use a Star gun that looked like a SATA jet90 and it sprayed just as well. I wouldn’t mind trying one of them again.[/quote]
Can you remember what model star gun it was? Just out of curiosity :cheer:
[quote=”bran1har” post=32922]I would buy that gun in an instant and I think I will now that I know about this company. I would definetly trust it. I have never had a bad experience with chineese guns. I used to have a harbor freight gun that came in the 2 peice kit and I sprayed some pretty flawless paintjobs with it with no issue, so I think im gonna buy one right now. Thanks for sharing.[/quote]
The gun there talking about is not made in china it’s an airgunsa part of the anest iwata group with this particular model made in Italy.
:readthis:I have used the aurita brand of guns and there air adjustable controllers and the quality is absolute junk! Don’t waste your money and time
[quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=32741]the Iwata Bellaria is based on the W400 but with the flat wide pattern of the supernova ,much cheaper to buy and service than the nova ,however after all that my mate got himself a couple of AirGunza HTI guns and they lay clear fantasticly for less than £100 a piece ,there is also an S model which is supposed to be even better but from the results i have seen with the Gunza HTI so far im very impressed with the basic HTI
personaly i think having a reasonable quality gun and getting to know it well is the key to good results ,i never pay a lot for my guns so i tend to swop and change just for the hell of it ,i have used the supernova and they do work very well indeed but would i splash out top doller for one ,hhmmm[/quote]
Hey Paul I think you mean HTE air gunza don’t you? Anyways what setup did your buddy have in his? I was going to get the az3 HTE2
Myself considering there made in Italy as well :cheers[quote=”martinMK” post=32661]Has anyone used this gun? Looks like it is a part of Befra
g / Optima[/quote]Yeah it is a rebranded optima trifity, haven’t used one myself but I was looking at getting one a while back but didn’t have any feedback on it.
[quote=”ryan999″ post=32640]Im not sure what shipping and Importing taxes would cost you but they sell devilbiss gti prolites in Australia. Almost the same gun. Check that out and see if it can save you some coin. Also do yourself a favor and see if you can find a devilbiss gti pro with a T110 aircap to try. It is one of my favorite guns for clear. Depending on the specific clear you use it may be a great option.
The tekna will not have any advantage over the GTI Prolite. Depending on exchage rates and such the Tekna could be cheaper, not sure.[/quote]
Over here the prolite comes with only one setup and go’s for around $450. The tekna on the other hand comes with multiple caps three nozzles, digital gauge plus dekups adapter to boot, way better value, for not much more $$. :weights
The fact is I will be using the gun everyday so it will get a good workout, do you think it will hold up? BTW Ryan which do you prefer between the sata & prolite?I’m from Australia Ryan, so i was going to get the tekna prolite of eBay from the states and the cheapest place for the sata 4000 that I could find was England. Considering the tekna comes with a lot more options and produces great finishes I think I will go for that.
[quote=”ryan999″ post=32618]What are you planning on spraying with the RP? How much do you paint and in what conditions?[/quote]
Will be using it mainly for clear coat MS & HS clears, I work in a panel shop painting for a living doing on average 3 cars a day. We have two spray ovens at work so conditions are in a temp controlled environment apart from summer time when it gets very hot and dry conditions.[quote=”Andy T” post=32552]Well my first shift back went well. I’m currently trying to bring myself around ready for the next one that starts in a couple of hours. My body clock is shot at the minute 😆
So after not stepping foot in a booth for 9 months they decided to take it easy on me – my first three jobs were tri-stage reds. Then an awful orange/red pearl colour (Ford Mars Red) and a blend down a side in a very fine metallic. Nothing like breaking me in gently :blink:
They’d had to buy some guns since I left (obviously I took mine away when they sacked me!) For base they’re using a battered 3000RP that looks like they’ve been taking the fluid nozzle off with a hammer and chisel. Not the best pattern in the world! Plus the digital gauge doesn’t work so they set the pressure “by ear” :rofl
Needless to say I used my own gun for base….
They have invested in a Supernove EVO 1.3HD for clear though which I was straight at home with. Only managed one tiny run out of 20 panels so I’m happy with that after so long out of the game.
I think the booth needs a good clean out though!! I painted a front end on a Mitsubishi in tri stage pearl red and it looked as though someone had been sweeping up while I was clearing :blush: Plus chunks of dried paint that’d flaked off the plastic sheeting that was flapping around on the walls. If I get a spare hour tonight I’ll give it a quick tidy out as the job’s hard enough without dealing with all that.[/quote]
Hey Andy what gun and setup did you use on your tri-stage reds? BTW Great to see your back painting in a real oven again!
[quote=”zarbat007″ post=32555]Hi everyone.
Just a re-intro:I’m a hobbyist, been lurking most of the time. I check on here almost every night and have been doing lots of reading.
I haven’t really painted anything past 2-3 years since the introduction of waterborne here in Canada. First time I used Sikkens Autowave, definitely did not have a good start with it. :lol1
But 2 weeks ago, I decided to give waterborne another try when I was asked to paint a faded trunk. This time I used PPG Aquabase Plus and had great results *knock on wood*. It was hot and humid, but it came out great. I paint in a garage (no booth) and did not have a single dirt on the basecoat while I was helping it flash with a hair dryer. I was happy! I love painting. :rock
___________________________________________I was asked to paint the sides also. Its a coupe, the quarte 😉 r panel needs to be pained and blended into the door (BMW A08 gilvergray mettalic).
I have the following guns:
1. Iwata LPH400 with both LV4 and LVX caps (silver and orange). 1.4
2. Sata 3000 RP 1.3
3. Sata 3000 HVLP 1.3
I have almost 3 liters of Lesonal ProAir clear left. In my experience, it needs a 1.4 tip for decent results. So the Iwata will be used for that.
That leaves the RP and HVLP Satas.
I’ve read a few comments that when it comes to waterbase, the RP guns do a better job. Is this true? I used the HVLP for the trunk project but I figure when painting the side of a car, I’d use the better option. (whichever it is).Also a few unrelated Qs: :blush:
1. I have a gallon kit of Nason 465 high image clearcoat. Is it “waterborne safe”?
2. I remember some Sikkens paints have short shelf-life once mixed. (One week, sometimes even 24 hours etc). Is this the same case with PPG? (BMW A08)Thanks for the help and sorry about the rather long thread. :blush:[/quote]
From my personal experience I would suggest the sata hvlp setup as it lays the metallic down softly especially for that BMW SILVER. You could even use the iwata considering you have the lvx air cap which is great for base.
[quote=”ryan999″ post=32535]I love this gun. The TE10 aircap is great for certain clears, sealer, solvent and waterborne basecoat. The TE20 works good for clear and waterborne basecoat.
I have used mine a lot and have not had one issue with it at all.[/quote]
Which nozzle do you find yourself using the most Ryan ?