Byan Scholz
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[quote=”PaintGunMassacre” post=34017]I used the 3000RP for years with a 1.3 tip at 35psi stick that 3.5-4 inches away from your panel and you will get all the material and speed you will need . :P[/quote]
x2 that or get a 4000rp with 1.3 and youll be golden
onyx has a new line out that is a low voc and blows the water away and with no fans
ive sprayed water and had no problems
also if your using the onyx hd heard its very sensitive to humiditypaint is a raw material and you need to understand how it works. if all u had to do is type a code in a coumpter pour some liquid in a cup and pull the trigger there be a paint shop on every corner.
if been using basf for 8 years and it took me while to get it figured out but now its a brezze and tinting is cake. we also use limco supreme plus and that to took couple months to work out but that to is an easy to use.
havent heard this yet
3m has a new tape out its green made out of rice paper and is prefect not to sticky doesn’t leave residue corners great doesnt start to roll up either on corners like the blue
think its was made has a fineline for waterborn paint but always works with solventhey ive had the same problem to first coat good second coat looks like fish eye glory i usally end up spraying another coat or two and it seems to go away i rarely use it but think its prob moisture getting trapped in the can.
i was wondering same thing working on a 2012 jetta the other day and it was repaint i was like um customer said they bought brand new. and samething it was shiny between layers
lol had to do couple this month like this we put in the main body paint code and then hit relate colors to find the lower color code which is color with a flat clear on top and it is alot harder to to match cause of the flat clear makes the side tone darker
Part of glass newer ones have 3 clips to align it that u have to cut threw
4000 hvlp with 1.4 tip
Blends are flawless even on the hardest metallics
I use diamontBigger tip will help or reduce it more
Hb body 307 is some nice stuff
I use evercoat primers alot on resto
I was buying some stuff paper tape filler etc fom keystone 2 years ago or so now I rarely buy anything from even parts. I do buy thinner from them since they seem to be able give best deals on 55gL special if u buy couple parts. My old key driver always hooked it up.
I’ve had a lot success sanding the chrome with 220 make sure there’s no shine spots, then spray etch primer, seal and base. Or etch and prime.
Actually just finished a 2013 f350 guy wanted all chrome trim pieces painted to match. Also did 2010 Maserati all the chrome trim and wheels. Guy curbed checked the wheels about 6 months later and the paint held up good didn’t peel back.I do pretty much samething in my shop but I don’t have that big of a issue with flash rust. We clean it and dry it and try not to touch it with bare hands. Sometimes threw some sanding dust on it.
Like said before the minor flash rust won’t hurt to much I usually get everything ready and run over the metal really quick with 80 before priming to get the rust off[quote=”lild” post=31811]9 out of 10 times the insurance will get thier way, especailly if the shop is on any program. Best advice, start learning the great art of bs……[/quote]
:cheers most people don’t care about all the fine print shit. All I say is I have to do this and that to do it right and here’s what I need and we don’t do it any other way and I don’t care what blah blah does at the shop down the road. And that uslay ends the bull.
