Byan Scholz
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Only ting i dont is use a sealant wax on it right away. I look at how does oem paint car and put all that crap on in less then 24 hrs then 99.99% of the time once it gets to the dealer they wax it and put more crap on the paint.
I’ve been use red pads for years and basing over even metallic blends. It’s all about how u use it. I also use scuff stuff.
Never remember having problem with this code uslay little bit of green will kill the red
When I’m tinting I uslay tint has much has possible with the toners in the forumla then if need litte green or yellow to kill the brightnessAlso when ur chipping out the color I always take to count how my system mixes compared to the chip like some times slivers mix little darker and bluer or lighter blues tent to be to blue when mixed comped to the chip. But for some reasons whites still kick me in the butt mostly Toyota and Hondas when I used bc
Yea 8:2:1 is how I mix it. I haven’t had any problems yet with it. I spray it over diamont some times.
Yea I thing the 4200 is the low voc version
All limco products
I use the crap out of it if you want extra uv protection spray 3 coats on it also use the new forumla which is 8:2:1reducer I use it on all used cars and even on cheaper customer jobs. U can lay it really nice to once you get it.
Have you used the limco plus base ?
What I do is use usually medium Hardener and medium reducer with the ss then use slow slow on the clear basically just use a slower hardener in the clear then the ss. Also Helps if use ss and clear that use the same hardener
I’ve done two tri stage pearl white cars now with ss both came out pretty damn nice
I have supernova for about 2 years now it is slow specially in a down draft booth but I like it for small parts and maybe one or two panels at a time it’s great for bike parts it will lay clear down super smooth
I use a 4000rp for everyday repair workTry car works organe tape,
I buy a lot of my jobbers brand stuff like paper, plastic, sand papper, wax and degrease remover, even body filler and seam sealer most of its made by big companies and they just put there own label on, I use all name brand paint products like said before cost more up front but save a lot in the end.I would just get the biggest u can get for 240volt, which is around 7.5hp with 60gall tank might be able o get mouthing little bigger.
I used 7.5hp when I first started out was fine pretty much ran the whole time was spraying tho was pushing 25 cfm now I have 30hp with about 300gals that handles 5body guys and full time painter.
I’ve always have had Curtis compressors, pretty much bullet proof motors usually go threw starters and capictors every six months but no bad to replace couple bucks and couple mintues to replace, also keep basic spare parts around for them like qaskets and pressure switchsMost be tri stage week that’s all I had this week it felt like and just whites
A lot of helpful info here, like the slurry method for whites I’ve done smilir things with faded blues and reds with making a grey slurry to help milk it out.
Have you changed your shampoo, laundry cleaner or any other personal hygiene products lately ?
I use limco ss and it uses the same Hardner has the limco clears, double the Hardner would make it dieback.
I see your from south fl I’m in Stuart and I’ve only used fast hardeners a little this week ( no heat booth) don’t understand why he would tell u double the amount.
I use to have the dad system at my old shop now at my new sop I have rti filters In my booth no complaints yet but I also have a kaeser dryer
I use diamont and use blender on pretty much all metallic blends and use it as first coat on real fine metallics makes blends pretty much on detachable.
