Byan Scholz
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Looks good, looks like your blowing right threw it.
Those evercoat ez are nice to have around even can use for small breaks threw before base.
What kind of tittle did the car come with rebuild, clean …. ?
I’m doing a 2012 carvan for friend right now whole left side getting replaced. Thing hardest thing was taking the 30 plus trim panels off :lol1
Try to find a tinting class it will help out a million and just understanding the color wheel will help.
Yea is little thin but I like it like that easier to work with for me
[quote=”Jayson M” post=29605][quote=”ding” post=29596]Like it Jay. How is the American Blue working out?[/quote]
We have had it at the shop for a couple of years.It can take a bake cycle and if you unmask it reasonable soon its not bad.It can splinter off the roll like all american tape,corners not bad,tears off pretty easy.It doesn’t leave as sharp a line as pg27 but its liveable.I prefer the old norton tape from a few years ago or the original beige 3m 233,but the blue american is cheap.[/quote]
Have you tried the carworks organe tape Is pretty good stuff and cheap, don’t know about baking.Don’t look to bad just that side ?
[quote=”Balden” post=29353]you know i dont care too much for 5335 (it tends to run on me) 5300 i love, but what do i know, i cant even spray matt black.[/quote]
I tend to see it run easier when spraying over clear (like blend panels ) full repaints not much of problem.
Try letting first coat tack up real good or use smaller tip.Ive done alot of matte finish from bc/cc to ss. And prob the most unforgiving when comes to techinque. I use a 3000hvlp with 1.4 tip helps with the striping, you also got to keep the edges wet on ss and Iwata supernova for clears.
I sprayed a 2500hd suburban matte black which was fun ended up spraying roof by its self and the hood off the truck.
I’m basf guy to, but I use the John derre tractor paint blitz black now on matte blacks. Spraying a 1985 Chevy crew cab dually this week matte black with gloss black and brushed metal finished accents.
I use basf also, and use the 5335 all time for overalls and resto, the other ones are good for smaller jobs not so much overalls. For that smooth show finish I do three coats first coat with a litte faster Hardner and reducer then the last two coats ( helps with solvent pop die back) or you could spray normal two coats then block and reclear, would give you one flat finish. I uslay do it the first way then cut and buff and it looks sweet, unless it’s a super high end job then go second way. Either way the clear looks great. My buddy loves it to for custom work says go to clear in less money is no problem then he goes with glasurit but it’s pretty hard to spray but flows great can’t remember the number can find out tomorrow if u want…
I also have 4000hvlp I use for base mostly on the harder to blend colors and its great, I’m slowly switching all my guns to 4000. I think they work great for the newer colors with all the and hi metallics and fifty different body lines on one panel. If tried another brands of guns but still find sata’s fit me the best.
X4 also switch from norton to 3m, also heard marquis has some good suff but also pricey.
I haven’t found anything either that has been able to match factory, some stuff has came close but still hard to match tool markings.
For now I used sem, two part black, tan and gray, and the brush able stuff in can or caulking tube.I think your problems is the 1.3 tip
I use 3000rp with 1.4 on larger areas and hvlp 1.4 on spots
How you like the 4000rp for clear?
I prep bare metal with 80, and feather edges with 180
I use there am tech 4200 clear all the time for cheaper jobs and it works Great haven’t tried any of there base but heard solid colors are good and the metallic have little problem matching. They seem to have good clears and primers
If you want something bright candy is the way to go, or a base coat with a lot of pearl in.
I can look at my basf rm crizzama book tomorrow sometimes they have bright base coats that use candy in them and they still spray like base coats.